From Gancao to Glowing Skin: Licorice Root in Skincare
For generations, licorice root or Gancao 甘草 is one of the mainstays of the apothecary in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). Rather than being a sweet treat, it has always been a powerful tool for treating a multitude of ailments and balancing out other herbs in a formula. Licorice has a long-standing position in the TCM pantheon because of its ability to balance and "harmonize" other herbs in a formula. While historically it was used to heal issues from inside the body, recent research has found it’s multi-faceted power for topical use.
The View of TCM: More Than Just Sweetness
According to TCM philosophy, licorice root is both sweet and neutral, and flows through the Heart, Lung, Spleen, and Stomach meridian channels. The main uses of licorice root include tonifying the spleen qi, clearing heat, detoxifying, and moistening the lung. What do these uses translate into for your skin? The TCM definition of "clearing heat and detoxifying" translates to reducing inflammation and removing irritants - the roots of redness, eczema, and acne. Additionally, the definition of "moistening" refers to helping with dryness and irritation. Finally, because of its support of Spleen Qi (which governs the process of transformation and transportation in the body), it is believed to help resolve dampness, which can cause issues such as puffiness or sluggish skin.
Modern Science Supports the Wisdom of TCM
The bioactive compounds in licorice root, specifically glabridin, liquiritin, and licochalcone A, contribute to the incredible dermatological effects of licorice root, and have been supported by several clinical trials:
1. Anti-Inflammatory & Soothing Effects: Glabridin and licochalcone A are both strong anti-inflammatories. The results of a trial that was published in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2008) showed that licochalcone A significantly reduced redness and inflammation in patients who had mild to moderate eczema. Therefore, licorice root is a superior product for soothing rosacea, sensitive skin, and post-procedure irritation.
2. Hyper-Pigmentation & Brightening Properties: Licorice is a standout for addressing hyper-pigmentation. Liquiritin disperses melanin (the pigment that causes hyper-pigmentation), and glabridin prevents the activity of tyrosinase (the enzyme that produces melanin). A study published in Phytotherapy Research (2013) demonstrated that a topical gel containing licorice extract was significantly effective in diminishing melasma and UV-induced pigmentation in comparison to a placebo treatment after multiple weeks, providing a non-irritating alternative to the common brightening agents such as hydroquinone.
3. Antioxidant & Acne Prevention: As previously mentioned, the anti-inflammatory properties of licorice root provide relief from redness and swelling associated with acne. In addition to providing relief from redness and swelling, glabridin is a powerful antioxidant that protects skin from oxidative stress and damage from pollution and UV light - major factors that lead to premature aging. Research conducted in the Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy also indicated the antimicrobial properties of licorice extracts, which will help control the growth of bacteria that cause acne.
Getting Started With Using Licorice Root
When shopping for products that contain licorice root extract, glabridin, or licochalcone A. Look for concentrations between 0.5-2%. Most people find licorice root to be safe for all skin types, even those that tend to be inflammatory. The gentle nature of licorice root means that it can be applied every day, either alone or in combination with other antioxidants such as Vitamin C for enhanced brightening and protection.
The Conclusion: Licorice root provides a link between traditional knowledge and scientific evidence. From its use as a TCM method to "harmonize" other herbs, and "clear heat", to its clinically supported application as a soothing, brightening and protective agent, licorice root offers a holistic way to promote skin wellness. When selecting a product that includes this potent root, you're not just following a current trend; you're implementing thousands of years of medicinal knowledge directly onto your skin.
Always patch test new products. Although licorice root is considered safe for topical application, consult a dermatologist or a licensed TCM practitioner for individualized recommendations before using any new product, especially if you have a pre-existing condition.
